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Double Stitched

August 23rd, 2009



Double Stitched
How do you use a sewing machine to make a double row hem on knit fabric?

I’m trying to put hems on a knit shirt and am not sure how you get the double row of stitching you find on shirts you buy in a store. Do I need a serger or can I use a twin needle on my brothers sewing maching? If I can use the twin needle how do I thread it?

If you have one available and the time to learn how to do it well, a cover stitch on a serger is a good way to go, but it’s a fairly steep learning curve.

It is easier to get a reasonably good job done with a twin needle on a standard sewing machine*, used slowly and with care. The machine should have an auxiliary spool pin. Thread up as normal, both top and bottom, and then just thread the second top thread from the second spool pin through the same thread path. You may need to slacken off your BOBBIN tension quite a bit, which can be a little tricky. Check how to do this with the sewing machine manual. Test the tension and stitch quality carefully on off-cuts of the knit fabric.

*Use a JERSEY or KNIT twin needle, as this will give the best results on a knit fabric. Schmetz do one which should be readily available.

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